All parts should be installed by a certified Glock armorer.
Scroll through the photos below to get an idea of the parts if you are not familiar with them...
Instructions written in black are for disassembly.
Instructions written in red are for reassembly.
Fig 1) Using a 3/32" disassembly tool remove the back plastic trigger housing pin. All pins should be removed by pushing out left to right and reinstalled right to left. A roll of 2" tape is a helpful tool that helps stabilize the frame when pushing the pins out and keeps the pins from rolling around.
Fig 2) Remove the locking block pin. (Some older 9mm did not have this pin) Move to Figure 3 if your frame does not have the locking block pin... Reinstallation Note: The locking block pin should be removed and reinstalled before the trigger pin...
Fig 3) Remove the trigger pin. Using your thumb, wiggle the slide stop lever forward and rearward while applying pressure at the same time on the trigger pin. Reinstallation Note: Before installing the trigger pin install the locking block pin first - see Figure 2. The trigger pin is the last to be removed and last to be reinstalled to keep from bending or damaging the slide stop lever spring. Remember to wiggle the slide stop lever forward and rearwards as you are inserting the trigger pin in order for the hole in the lever to line up with the holes in the frame and locking block...
Fig 4) Remove the slide stop lever by pulling back and out. Reinstallation note: When reinstalling make sure the slide stop lever spring is under the locking block pin...
Fig 5) Remove the locking block. Use the disassembly tool to help pry up the locking block using the frame for leverage. Reinstallation note: After reinstall the locking block, install the top locking block pin (Fig. 2) and the back plastic trigger housing pin (Fig.1) before reinstalling the slide stop lever...
Fig 6) Use the disassembly tool or grasp the ejector and pull up to remove the trigger group...
Fig 7) Finish lifting out the trigger group. Reinstallation note: Holding the trigger group as in (Figure 7) while sliding the trigger group in the frame will keep the trigger bar from riding up over the lip of the connector...
Now you can start installing the trigger kit:
Install the parts in reverse order as above and don't force anything!
Fig 8) The trigger group is assembled and lubed when the trigger kit is shipped. Figure 8) shows how the nose of the trigger bar is under the lip of the connector and should look when ready to install.
The Trigger Kits have the trigger bar, trigger spring and connector installed, but the figures and instructions below show how to disassemble if needed...
Fig 9a, 9b) Take the trigger bar out of the housing by pulling forward (Figure 9a) while rotating the trigger bar to the left and gently pulling the cruciform wing (Figure 9b) out of the housing slot. Take your time- it comes out easily.
Fig 9c) Now you can take the trigger spring off the trigger bar and out of the trigger housing. Reinstallation Note: When reinstalling the trigger spring make sure the spring resembles the letter S for correct installation.
Fig 10a, 10b) The connector can be removed by taking the 3/32 tool and pushing the connector out of the housing from the hole in opposite side of the housing. Be careful and do not bend or change the angle of the connector.
Fig 11) There are known issues with the vertical frame ribs, especially the one in the back of the frame causing the trigger not to reset.
Link to: Installing Slide Trigger Kit Parts
Note: All parts in the instructions are OEM stock and not Vanek Custom parts.